Ted Thornhill, Mailonline travel editor
15:35 15 June 2024, updated 15:46 15 June 2024
- Ted Thornhill took the GWR Night Riviera from London Paddington to Penzance
- He made a short film out of his experiences – and rates it out of five below
- Would you board a bed for a trip to the West Country? Vote in our poll…
- READ MORE: Inside the house with the best views in Cornwall
Some say the golden age of rail transport in Britain faded years ago.
I’d say it’s still with us. Just.
Mainly thanks to the country’s two sleeper services – the Caledonian Sleeper from London Euston to the Highlands (a service I reviewed and promoted as Britain’s contender for the world’s greatest rail journey) and GWR’s Night Riviera from London Paddington to Penzance via Taunton, which I discovered on the trip at the end of Cornwall offers romance and excitement thanks to the carriage load (Mark III).
This route follows one of the most scenic lines in the country, includes some of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s best construction work – including one particularly stunning bridge – the beds are dreamily comfortable, the staff decidedly lively and there’s an all-night bar.
Pulled by a diesel locomotive, the train leaves London Paddington late in the day – at 11.45pm – but passengers can board from 10.30pm and hang out, if they have a berth, in the first class lounge on platform one.
It’s pretty basic and not much to write home about, but the train sure is. Hence this property.
I’m traveling with my partner and six-year-old daughter – who, like her ex-trainer dad – is beyond excited.
We are greeted in car F by Heidi from GWR who seems genuinely pleased to have us on board.
As he checks us into our berth, he reveals that only a few days ago he had used the services of Prime Minister Rishi Sunak to visit Cornwall on the campaign trail.
Heidi reveals that at the beginning of her shift, the police “appeared out of the blue” and announced that they had to carry out a sweep of the carriage.
She continued excitedly: “I said, ‘What for?’ And they told me the Prime Minister was on board.”
Rishi would surely agree that it is a wonderful operation.
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Heidi takes our complimentary in-room breakfast order – croissants for the girls, sausage and ketchup for me plus coffee and orange juice – then we explore our quarters.
Which are the most attractive.
Not a standard Pullman by any means, but cozy and comfortable.
We have two connecting bunk rooms, each with a sink hidden under the lid, a slim wardrobe with hangars and mineral water bottles in holders at the bottom, plus switches, sockets and charging points at the end of the pillow. bed.
Access to the upper bunks, meanwhile, is via a clever, space-saving folding ladder that unrolls from the walls. A bonus is unrestricted access to the lower bunk (ladders on the Caledonian Sleeper are bolted to the beds).
I also liked the setting – the decor is a soothing mix of browns and greys, and the lights can be adjusted to create a hygge-y atmosphere.
Before bed we head to the lounge which is great.
The layout here is like a first-class carriage with bells and whistles, an inviting mix of sprawling upright four-seaters with tables, pairs of Mastermind-style armchairs set at jaunty angles, and banquettes.
Need to plug in a device? You are covered. The cart is flooded with charging points.
At one end is a counter where a cheerful bartender dispenses refreshments.
Here the “leaning posts” are shaped like elongated mushrooms.
Strange.
We stock up on beer, wine and juice for the little ones (snacks and basic breakfast items can also be bought) and sit down at one of the tables for a game of GWR train Top Trumps (the old ones are the best, eh?)
The atmosphere in the carriage is friendly, strangers talking to strangers. In London. In a train.
What will be next?
It’s time to go to bed and the litmus test for the Night Riviera – does it offer a good night’s sleep?
Result? Passport with merit.
Pillows and blankets feel luxurious and mattresses are supportive.
The bed is a bit on the narrow side, but then it’s a train. I didn’t expect king size.
Sleep is further aided by the design of the Mark III cars used by the Night Riviera.
When they were introduced in the 1970s, they were cutting edge – and still offer one of the smoothest and quietest rides anywhere in Europe.
I have no problem nodding.
I wake up at around 5am to use one of the two toilets at the end of the carriage, just as the train passes over Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s 100ft Royal Albert Bridge, west of Plymouth, which crosses the River Tamar.
It’s rightly considered a national treasure – and affords passengers magnificent views as the train whizzes by at 15mph.
Beyond this bridge, the train winds through beautiful Cornish countryside, past lush meadows, ancient ruins and into the Hayle, a picturesque sandy estuary.
At 7 a.m. breakfast is delivered to us by a (still cheerful) Heidi.
It’s not really a golden age breakfast, but the coffee is good and the sausages hot.
The annoying thing is that I can’t sit on the bed to eat it because the top bunk is too low, so I eat lunch standing up.
This is not necessarily a problem for solo travelers as the lower bunk can be converted into a sofa.
And there is always the option of repairing the lounge.
It is from here that I catch my last view – St Michael’s Mount, which dominates the bay on which Penzance lies.
We pull into the blazing sun, freshen up with a shower in the first class lounge – you can pre-book these on the train when you board – and consider the service, which I’m sure even the Prime Minister would agree is an excellent way to get to stress free western country.
Prefer to drive? You’ve gone off the rails…