Businesses in one of Cornwall’s best-known seaside towns are said to be in “survival mode” as a drop in tourism has left swaths of holiday cottages unbooked and empty – while the community is “just hanging on” as locals struggle to find home. rent or buy.
Cornwall has long been one of the most sought-after destinations to stay in the UK – and this popularity has peaked during the Covid pandemic. The small but perfect town of Porthleven was one of the seaside communities to benefit from the Covid boom.
However, businesses are reporting a sharp drop in attendance so far this year. And the finger of blame has been pointed at “greedy” holiday cottage owners – who charge thousands of pounds a week for their properties.
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Ross Sloan is head chef at the acclaimed Kota restaurant in Porthleven’s historic harbour, now home to some of Britain’s finest restaurants. This esteemed restaurant is the flagship restaurant of Jude Kereamy – who was a favorite on the BBC Great British Menu 2021 and was named ‘Chef of the Year’ at the Trencherman’s Guide Awards 2019.
Kota boasts three AA Rosettes, a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was named ‘Restaurant of the Year’ in the Cornwall Life Food and Drink Awards and was one of The Telegraph’s 50 Best Summer Restaurants in Britain. However, head chef Ross Sloan admits that even Kota has seen a big difference in business so far this year, the Express reports.
In an interview with the newspaper, he said: “We’re ticking the box – but we have to make things more efficient and have less staff. And if we’re busy, we just have to deal with it.”
“The thing is, we’re very cheap for the quality of our food. Where else can you get a tasting menu as good as ours for £75?
“Other places charge the same prices but don’t offer the same quality. And many businesses – those that rely on tourists – are now in survival mode.
In recent years, big-name chefs – such as Rick Stein and Michael Caines – have opened restaurants in Porthleven only to close within a year or two. Mr Sloan believes this is because they have relied too much on tourism – which can be a fickle mistress.
“They just don’t get it right here,” Mr. Sloan said of these culinary heavyweights. “The restaurants were too expensive – the locals didn’t want to eat there.”
As a result, local trade is the backbone of Cornwall’s most successful businesses. And Mr Sloan says the downturn in tourism this year will hit those businesses that rely more on tourism the hardest.
But why did tourism decline? Mr. Sloan depends on a number of factors.
He said landlords were to blame because they were “greedy” and said they had “raised prices so much that when people come on holiday they can’t afford to eat out”.
He added that “people can go abroad for a lot less than a holiday here” and said he believed people “wanted to get out of this country”.
Mr Sloan’s sentiments are echoed by Kelvin Batt, owner of Shoals Brewery, located in an old shipyard adjacent to Kota Restaurant and Mussel Shoal Harbour, who opted for “fun dining” over Kota’s fine dining.
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Speaking to Express.co.uk, he said: “If you’re a business and you rely on tourists, you’re going to struggle. You need local support to survive.
“My business is much more about local business – the brewery is about 80 percent local, the business. The clam shoal is about 80 percent local.”
“Bookings are unavailable – many holiday homes are empty. Holiday home owners don’t want people to know about it. I think they are too greedy with the prices.”
“If you’ve spent two grand a week on a holiday house, you’re not going out to eat every night. Everyone’s cost of living has gone up and people just can’t afford it.”
“If you’re targeting local business, you’ll be fine – but anyone dependent on tourism is going to struggle.”
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